![]() I am generally happy with my M10 mkii ooc jpegs but will switch to raw (+jpeg) to have a go at improving on them and gain the benefit of having a better quality back up of my photos. Thank you for your reply - I think I understand how it works. Once you change settings to get your desired result you can save that as a default setting when opening an orf and setup up your camera with exact same settings. It's then up to you what settings you change to get the desired result. So it is effectively the ooc JPEG but in the raw format. When you select RAW editing tab the orf will open with the exact same camera settings you took the photo with. The default camera settings are basically what Olympus considers standard but not necessarily the best. You can then set those options on the camera as starting points for future shots. Take some sample pictures of subjects that appeal to you and then see the results of different options. Then based on what you have said you probably don't need to shoot raw. For new owners, Olympus Viewer is very helpful to see what the effect of various adjustments do. orf file for the first time in Olympus Viewer 3 are there some easy, straightforward settings or '1 click' to achieve a result like an ooc jpeg so I can get an idea of what Olympus recommends, or do I have to start from scratch adjusting each different setting? Apologies if this is a stupid question. I have absolutely no idea about raw editing, so my question is: when I open the raw. I've recently been tempted to try shooting raw, hoping I may be able to get better results with some photos that I didn't quite get it right when I took them. I have always stuck with jpeg because I feel raw editing will be a bit overwhelming for me, too many options, and I don't really know what will look best, so I've kept it simple with minor tweaks to jpegs. In fact I "revived" my old noisy Panasonic LX3 which looks like a new camera with its raw files treated by DxO. So for me OV3 for a reference converter, but DxO to get the best out of the raw file. In fact in critical tests at ISO 200 it (Prime noise reduction) actually seems to improve fine detail (again at silly pixel peeping levels). Gets rid of most noise but retails detail. With a high ISO noisy image then the DxO Prime noise reduction is certainly the best thing I've seen. In DxO's case each new body + lens combination it sees causes an auto download of a DxO lab created profile, which does deliver noticeably (pixel peeping) better results than the lens canned data that the raw file contains. Edge halos always annoy me.įor that reason I use DxO and do get better results. Good in that colours etc are predictable, but bad because it always applies some noise reduction and sharpening even if told not to. ![]() The bad thing about OV3 is that it processes the raw file the same way as the camera does. The good thing about OV3 is that it processes the raw file the same way as the camera does. I'm thinking about starting to use it for my raw conversions from my Olympus camera. How many use Olympus viewer 3 for your Olympus cameras? I've heard great things about the results from it. ![]()
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